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When finished, we re-installed the oil filler cap. Since we drained about 7.3 L of oil, we added roughly 7.4 L of new Mobil-1 0w-40. Using the funnel, the oil was slowly added. Because of this, we always measure the amount of old oil drained. You can NOT measure the oil level until the oil has reached operating temperature (around 180 F). With most dry sump vehicles, one must be conscious of the amount of oil being added.
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Clean any oil residue around the drain plug - this makes it easier to check for any leaks. Using the 3/8" drive torque wrench and 8 mm hex key socket, the drain plug was tightened to 37 lbs ∙ ft. We replaced the crush washer on the drain plug and hand tightened. Moving under the car, only a small trickle of oil was draining. This message will go away when the fan is re-installed and reconnected. NOTE: an error message will appear when/if the car is started. We chose not to reattach the fan for now, in order to help us to be able to check for any leaks around the oil filter cover cap. We replaced the air guide intake by performing Step 9., in reverse order. This will be crucial when inspecting the oil filter cover cap that it is not leaking. Roughly 7.4 L of oil drained.Īt this point we wiped around the oil filter cover cap to remove any misplaced oil. With the filler cap opened, and a large oil pan under the drain plug, we loosened the drain plug with the 8 mm hex key socket. It is better to be safe than realizing the filler cap is seized closed after draining all of the oil - which would leave us with an immobile vehicle!
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Although, it should never be an issue for this car, insuring that the filler cap could be removed before draining any fluid is a good practice. This allows air to easily displace the oil as it is drained. We leave the cap on, but completely loose.
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We used a QuickJack along with a few jack stands to be on the safe side while under the car.īefore removing any oil, we checked that we could fully open the oil filler cap, which is located on the left side of the rear compartment. We lifted the car off the ground - enough for us to get under the middle of the car to reach the oil filter. We like to take the car for a short (~15 min) drive to get the oil circulating and evenly heated. We use these automotive self-centered bonded seal/gasket washers that work like copper crush washers, but do not require to be tightened as much.įirst, we warmed the car to operating temperature. Since Porsche uses a dry sump lubrication system, it is easy to overfill the oil and a pain to remove the oil if too much is added. For reference, we drained 7.2 - 7.4 L of oil. We measured the amount of oil that was drained, since knowing this amount will help provide a "sanity check" of the amount of new oil to add. We used a QuickJack, which gave us plenty of space to get under the car to reach the drain plug. It is definitely a necessity to have the car lifted enough such that you can get a ratchet wrench and oil pan under the engine of the car. After performing the oil change, there are a few important things to note. As far as maintenance goes, this was a relatively simple job. This guide goes through the steps we used to perform an engine oil change on a Porsche 911 (991.1) Carrera S.